Mount Kilimanjaro
Despite the tens of hundreds who have walked to its summit, Mount Kilimanjaro still stands as a beautiful and daunting objective -one that can be shared by people from all walks of life. This mountain presents a real challenge and one that can be shared with family without objective risk.
| As of 20.8.07 Sarah does not know if she can climb Mount Kilimanjaro - this is why she is attempting it. Unathletic, a stone overweight, and has never ran a cross country day in her life, can she do it with only a 9 week period to prepare? This is a heoric challenge on the same scale of Peak Lenin or Denali (we frame our own scale) . She is putting in the training and is growing in confidence. Sarah's own probability of success has grown from impossible, to 1:100 and now ...1:3, next week, "evens. | |
Anticipated Itineray | Actual Itinerary | |
Day 1 24th Depart 2000 from LHR. onthe 25th Arrive 0630 am Nairobi, Fly to Kilimanjaro Airport 0800 arr 0850. Then take a bus transfer to Marangu.. R & R at the hotel | Sarah on Day 1: We arrived at Nairobi airport and had to transfer to a flight to Kilimanjaro Airport. The queue was long at the transfer desk and very slow. With only 30 mins spare we got our boarding cards and caught our flight. We flew over Mt Kilimanjaro. My first thought was " it's ok, I can get up there" until how far the clouds lay below the mountain. Then I felt sleepy..very sleepy. We arrived at the airport and took a minibus to Marangu where we stayed in the Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort (what luxury!). I enjoyed the drive to the hotel. On the way I smelt some familiar smells of Africa and saw a baboon sitting atop of a tree on look out. W met the group and we were given a good briefing by Edwardo. I am nervous tonight and have been all day. I am sorry for testing Kevin's patience to the limit. Then to top it off I trapped my finger in the door. I will try to relax more tomorrow to help my body adjust. Edwardos Rules:
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Day 2 26th Registration and formalities are completed before we head off to Nale Moru (1950m) to commence the climb. 4 hrs walk to camp at 2600m. (+650m ascent). | Sarah on Day 2: We took a 2-hour drive to the start of the track. We were given a packed lunch which involved Dairy Milk" I'm impressed! We arrived at the Park entrance after a two-hour 4WD journey. It was very busy, we met our porters then set off on our first walk ( 4 hours) to reach 2600m at Simba Camp. The track .was very dusty, my boots are now brown not blue. We saw monkeys and some children who kept asking for chocolate. The porters passed us with great speed and strength. I forgot to mention for our team of 12 there are 42 people to carry etc. for us...it seems crazy. W reached camp and realized why. A toilet tent, 3-course dinner service, wash bowls, tents, tables, chairs. This is luxury. I never expected this. The team are friendly and there is a good sense of caring for each other. Not at all what I expected. I have relaxed today and really enjoyed myself. | |
Day 3 27th Shake out day - first real test of fitness and confidence. Starting from Camp at 2600m the day is a steady ascent to the "Second Cave" (3450m). Then onto the campsite at a sheltered valley near KikelewaaCaves(1000m ) | Sarah on Day 3: "8 hour walk to 3600m, Lunch in a cave!"
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Day 4 28th Crunch day! if yesterday didnt finish us off today will be a good chance for the mountain to weaken our will . A steep climb up "grassy slopes" to reach the desert of the Mawenzi Tarn (4330m), (+730m ascent) | Sarah on Day 4:"We are at 4200m tonight. Above the clouds! This is an incredible achievement for me and I know that I couldn’t have done this without the trip to the Alps (cos that was really tough!). I am still managing to relax. I have a slight headache but there is nothing wrong with my appetite. I love it. I can eat anything and as much sugar and chocolate as I like. It doesn’t get much better. This morning was tough. I felt a bit sick ( the porto potty didn't help - a big stinking turd floating atop!) but I soon came around when we stated to move.
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Day 5 29th Cross the dry windy Saddle to Kibo Hut - 4330m to 4700m, a preparation day (370m ascent) | Sarah on Day 5: "Ugh! Wind. Tired - too fast, Sleep - get up for summit. Nerves " Kevin: Today was the real shake out day. It was a long day walking. Sarah had thought that it might have been an easier day than it actually was. Conscious of the summit push that night there was some group norming taking place within the team. The team kept to the pace of the few and inadvertently went at a speed that was not beneficial for acclimatization. The days pace was slightly on the fast side for Sarah ( she was now experienced enough to identify this impact on her own acclimatization) yet the call for "twende twende" to move on by one or two was dolefully heeded by all. Sarah and I kept to the rear setting our own pace as best we were permitted. Her frustration surfaced today and we dissipated it by cheerfully nicknaming the few who insisted in pushing on, the "Twende twits". We had a chuckle. When getting to the Kibo Hut we plodded in last. Sarah was pooped and had no reservations in showing it. After signing in at the hut we took to our tent and rested. We had 3 hours sleep until dinner at 5pm. After this kip Sarah felt the effects of altitude properly. Se was disheartened, the perceived shift to "summit fever" demoralized her...the lactic acid build up in her legs and feeling hungover just made her emotional. At dinner everyone appeared chipper and ready for the summit. Sarah sat there hooded in her down coat eating reluctantly and miserable. You could see her slipping deeper into a sea of negativity. She was in her own world.
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Day 6 30th Summit Day -15 hours with a midnight start - we plod at a steady pace until we reach Gillman's Point (5,685 m) to view sunrise. At this key rest stop, muscles and minds relax - its a make or break moment- we go for the summit . Those who are feeling strong, (inshalla Sarah and I) will push for the three hour round trip to the TRUE SUMMIT of Uhuru peak 5896m. Passing along the glaciers along the snow covered fim the goal we get to the objective. (+1200m ascent).
Summit proposal... After her rapid descent to Kibo (4700m). Sarah takes a rest before another 3 hour walk to reach Horombo (3,720m). After a good wash and 10 hours sleep. Sarah with engagement ring and Certificate . | Day 6: That night at 11pm we would get up and prepare to depart for 1130.We slept fitfully, fully clothed and ready to go. It was a cold night and Sarah was digging deep. She asked me to say something motivational to her. I thought about how she was on the verge of quitting, how she felt powerless, how she did not eat well. I had to be tough so said: " This is he last time in your life you will ever be here and have this chance..." She went to sleep with this in mind. 4 hours later we awoke at 11:20, there was low calling from within the team and no sign of our African friends. We eventually all roused and went to the mess tent for biscuits and tea. I made Sarah eat a full snickers bar in addition which helped pep her up...she was in better form after her sleep - adrenalin and excitement of the moment was apparent. The team seemed more reticent, it seemed some did not get any sleep. The team headed off at 12:30 , bottom of a long line of headlights (unessicary as it was a beautiful full moon). Sarah was at ease in contrast to a team seeming tired and a little nervy. The cha cha line progressed slowly with an irregular stop start pace. Progress was punctuated with irregular breaks in the first two hours which stemmed from the poor pacing of Rastus. The team struggled now. Sarah had persistently cold feet (she insisted on wearing light socks to avoid blisters). Nevertheless Sarah kept strong and positive - she felt good. At a stop I put on an extra pair of socks, placing two hand warmers at her ankles. Later I put windproof pants on her and that did the trick.The temperature was -10 or so, it felt very cold. and Sarah and I put our down coats on to keep warm. At around 5000m members were progressively deteriorating in their own quiet worlds - keeping a stiff upper lip. Kat was sick twice, and then at the caves, she fell, confused and dizzy. To my surprise Rastus seemed clueless as to what to do. Clearly AMS he was reluctant to dispense diamox and sought assurance that immediate descent was required. First at hand, Rachael and Carol did wonders with their caring support, got dextrose into Kat, and before she knew it was on her way down. The women of the team were a decided asset. At 5300m, just after this our "old friend" Francis popped up and asked if we wanted to split the group into a fast team to run ahead to get up to Gilman’s point before 8am. What a question, what timing! Certainly Sarah and I had summed up Francis correctly - Obviously I told Francis that the idea was bollocks and made it clear that we were best sticking together (Edwardos rule no 4). The small party of 3 opted to go ahead anyway, though none of them had ever been to this altitude previously. Sarah was undeterred, happy with the pacing and grew in confidence and warmth. The remaining team plodded along and grew fainter we had one extra accompanying guide with the team. At sunrise the team pulled up. Darren dizzy and had blurred vision, Stuart voiced a similar feeling. Rachel was struggling well but grew tired, her dad Paul and Darren & Kats friend Neil decided that they would opt to turn back as they felt the summit as too far away. and they may stop us reaching the top. A selfless decision, admirable and one which was unfortunate - had there been the extra guide they would have pushed on. Carol, Sarah and myself plodded on with Rastus. Poli Poli we continued on our own, looking upwards, passing snow then rock. As we plodded the scree turned into rock. Persistence and positive minds carried Sarah and Carol onwards.
At 7:30 am we reached Gilman’s Point 5685m onto of the mountain's crater rim. We were delighted to get there - the view was spectacular. Sarah could have comfortably gone on the summit but I had far more important business at hand (and was mindful of her descent). Here my love who had defeated her fears and preconceptions of impossible, she was the girl for me. I gave my camera to Carol. Atop of Africa, I knelt on one knee, took out a diamond ring and asked Sarah to marry me. Sarah was surprised and bursted into tears. She said yes! Happy day. I have never been happier on top of a mountain. We were all ecstatic. We looked across the glaciers and to the summit and were content. Sarah achieved what she thought was impossible.
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Sarah’s Kilimanjaro Song ( Sung to to Coca cabaña) Oh yes ... The descent... it was the usual drag... Formally from Horombo (3,720m) down to the forest of Mandara, then down to the National park gates at Marangu (1830m) and Hotel by the afternoon. Actually: straight after the porters traditional tip ceremony and song in the morning. Our team was very generous. |